Kadwa Weave Banarasi Sarees

Kadwa is Varanasi weaving at its most revered. At Hamjoli Banaras, every zari motif on our Kadwa Banarasi sarees is handwoven on its own with the discontinuous weft technique, giving almost hand-engraved detail and no long floats at the back. Pure silk, made to be passed down.

The Art of Kadwa Weaving

A Kadwa weave saree isn't just decorated with zari. The design is built into the fabric itself, one motif at a time. On Varanasi handlooms, weavers pass small bobbins through selected warp threads, a method called discontinuous supplementary weft weaving. That's how flowers, paisleys and fine butis seem to rise straight out of the silk. It looks like a hand-engraved zari saree, but every detail is woven, never printed.

It's slow, careful work, which is why a pure silk Kadwa saree can take four to eight weeks on the loom. Each motif needs its own passes, and dense all-over patterns, heavy borders or elaborate pallus can take much longer. A Fekwa weave is quicker because the extra yarn can travel across the fabric, leaving floats behind the motifs. Kadwa keeps the decorative weft inside the design, and that takes focus, precise thread control and steady tension.

You'll really see the difference when you turn the saree over. There are no long, loose zari floats stretching between motifs, so the back feels neater and is less likely to snag on jewellery or rub against your skin. A little handloom texture is perfectly natural. What sets genuine Kadwa apart is the absence of those long floating threads. It's a saree that's been thought through on both sides.

Our Kadwa Banarasi saree collection at Hamjoli Banaras celebrates that rare mix of artistry and practicality. Choose a pure Katan silk Kadwa saree for a wedding, a meaningful gift or any occasion that calls for quiet grandeur. Store it carefully, trust it only to a specialist silk cleaner, and it can stay rich for generations. More than a purchase, it's an investment in a living craft, holding the time, skill and imagination of the weaver who made it.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. How is Kadwa different from Fekwa or powerloom sarees?

Kadwa motifs are handwoven one by one, with the extra weft kept within each design. Fekwa carries the pattern threads across wider sections, which often leaves floats on the back. Powerloom isn't a motif technique at all; it simply means the saree was machine-made, and it can't replace the skilled hand labour behind true Kadwa.

2. Why are Kadwa Banarasi sarees more expensive?

Because each motif is woven individually, a single saree can take weeks of highly skilled work. Add pure silk, detailed zari and intricate borders, and the time, craftsmanship and cost all go up.

3. Is the reverse side of a Kadwa saree completely smooth?

Genuine Kadwa won't have long, loose zari floats between motifs, so the reverse is neater and more comfortable to wear. That said, it's handwoven silk, so you may still notice a slightly raised texture or the odd thread end.

4. How can I identify genuine handloom Kadwa weaving?

Examine the reverse side of the motifs: authentic Kadwa weaving has no loose continuous float threads stretching across motifs, as each motif is individually locked into the warp. You may also observe subtle pin marks (selvedge pinholes) along the borders, which indicate traditional handloom beam tensioning.